How to Choose the Right Surfboard

Hands down, the most important decision you need to make when learning how to surf is choosing the right surfboard.

 

Your surfboard plays a major role in what your experience in the waves will be like. The better your board is for you, the more waves you’ll catch and the more fun you’ll have. Choose the wrong board, and you could spend your entire session paddling around in the foam. 

 

The thing about choosing a surfboard is that even the smallest details can make a big difference. This is why it’s so important to understand the different elements of your surfboard and choose carefully.

 

But where do you even start when choosing the right board?

Whether you’re looking for your first surfboard, or want to upgrade your existing board to something more suitable, this guide will cover everything you need to know. 

 

 

3 Things to Consider Before You Choose a Surfboard

The surfboard you choose needs to be right for you. It needs to match your body, your skills, and the conditions you’re surfing in. 

 

Before we dive into all the details on this, here are three essential things to keep in mind before you pick out a shiny new board.

 

1. Wave Conditions

The type of wave you typically ride affects the type of board you should use. Consider the conditions you will be surfing in when making your board selection. 

 

If you plan to ride small, mushy waves, your board choice will look very different to surfers planning to charge Jaws.

 

2. Your Ability

When choosing a board, it’s important to find a balance between stability and maneuverability. Know what characteristics would work best with your surfing ability (and be honest!).

 

Board design often involves trade-offs, so consider your own skill level. A board that is too maneuverable may make it difficult for you to stay on your feet, while a board that is too stable may not allow you to progress in your maneuvers. It’s important to find a balance that works for you and your ability level.

 

3. Your Fitness

The design of your surfboard can impact the level of physical exertion required for the sport, depending on your body type. 

 

Typically, boards with longer and wider dimensions are easier to paddle but may struggle in navigating through choppy water. On the other hand, shorter and narrower boards are more agile but require more effort in paddling. It’s important to consider your physical capabilities and find a board that is suitable for you.

 

The Different Elements of a Surfboard

When you go out to choose a  surfboard, you’ll be hit by all kinds of strange terms – like rocker and fish. 

Huh?

 

We’ve got your back. Let’s explore some of the different design elements of a surfboard to help you understand how it all works. 

 

Nose Shapes

The design of the nose and front of a surfboard makes a big difference to the board’s performance during paddling. 

A pointed nose shape helps to minimize drag by cutting through the water, making the board more agile. Additionally, it also reduces the weight of the board when making turns. A pointed nose shape is also less likely to hit the rail during turns, as there is less surface area to make contact. This means you can snap off the top of the wave easier.

 

Rounded and wider noses on surfboards increase volume and buoyancy, which helps to lift more of the surfer and board out of the water. This results in more efficient paddling and more stability.

 

Tail Shapes

The tail of the surfboard is an important indicator of how the board will perform when a surfer is up and riding. The tail shape primarily determines how much of the board’s rail is in the water while standing. A lot of rail engagement provides stability and lift, but makes it harder to initiate turns.

 

Tail shape plays a crucial role in a surfboard’s performance. 

 

 

• Wider tails offer more volume, which can provide lift in smaller waves, but can become a hindrance in larger, more powerful surf. 

• • Narrower tails offer better control in heavier conditions but can result in less power in weaker waves.

 

• • Pin tails have less volume and less rail engagement, making them suitable for powerful waves but less effective in weak ones. 

 

• • Wide squash tails generate lift and speed in weak surf, but lack maneuverability in bigger waves. 

 

• • Swallow tails offer a balance between wider tails and pin tails. They have a wider rail profile and cutout for volume, allowing for control and maneuverability in a variety of wave conditions.

 

Volume (Buoyancy)

A surfboard’s buoyancy refers to how well it floats. This is measured in liters. 

 

Buoyancy is important because it provides the lift needed to get up to speed and catch unbroken waves. High-volume boards paddle better because they plane out of the water faster and reduce drag quickly. This allows for earlier takeoffs on waves, which is why longboards and midsize boards for smaller, weaker waves typically have more volume.

It’s super important to understand your own weight and choose a board with enough buoyancy to carry you. Here’s a good guide that explains how surfer weight and surfboard buoyancy work together.

 

Rails

Rails are the edges of the surfboard, and they play an important role in how the board responds to being in the water. Surfboard rail profiles mainly depend on the overall thickness of the board. 

 

Hard or sharper profiled rails offer easy engagement and disengagement for maneuverability, while softer rails provide added buoyancy and drive. 

 

Boards can have variations in rail profiles, with harder profiles in the tail for easier turning and softer profiles in the chest and nose for buoyancy and lift.

 

Rocker

Surfboard rocker refers to the curve of the board when viewed from the side. Imagine a board laid on a flat surface rocking from side to side. You got it – the more it “rocks”, the more rocker it has.

 

Boards with less rocker plane on the water more efficiently and reach paddling speed faster than boards with more rocker.

 

Boards with more rocker have less of the board and rails in contact with the wave face, resulting in easier turning and maneuverability. They also prevent the nose of the board from diving into the water when dropping into steep wave faces, making it a safer ride.

 

Generally speaking, flatter boards are great for flatter waves. More curved boards are great for steeper waves.

 

Fin Setup

The fins underneath your board also play a big role in how the board performs. 

 

The choice of fin setup for a surfboard depends on a couple of factors – like the type of wave you will be surfing, your skill level, and your personal preferences. 

 

Some common fin setups include the single fin, twin fin, thruster, and quad fin. Single fins provide stability and are good for long, smooth rides on larger waves, while twin fins offer more maneuverability and are well-suited for smaller, faster waves. These setups are often found on longboards or fish boards. 

 

Thrusters and quad fins are a combination of the two, providing a balance of stability and maneuverability. These are great choices for most surfers. 

 

Although, the best way to find the right fun setup is to just try out different configurations and see which works best for your personal style. 

 

How to Choose the Right Size Surfboard

We’ve covered some of the main characteristics of surfboards. However, the most important things you’ll need to know about are the size and style of the board. 

 

First, consider the type of surfing you want to do. Are you cruising a gentle wave hanging ten, or working on perfecting your aerial 360s? This will determine if you need a shortboard or a longboard.

 

Once you’ve decided on a style, reference a volume chart in liters to choose the correct volume for your skill level and body weight, while still maintaining the ride characteristics of that shape.

Here’s a great volume-to-weight calculator you can use.

 

Surfboard Shapes

While there are endless possible surfboard shapes, you can break them down into five main categories.

 

Longboards

Longboards are known for their stability, style, and smooth turns. They are generally 9+ feet long and have a high volume, often over 50 liters. They often feature a single fin, 2+1, or occasionally thruster fin setup. 

 

Longboards allow for more wave time in small swells due to their increased volume but are not suitable for pumping, generating speed, or pulling off aerial maneuvers. They have a unique riding style, called logging, with smooth and sweeping turns. If you want the ultimate in laid-back, retro surfing, then grab a longboard. 

 

If you’re a bigger surfer or an older surfer with less flexibility or balance, longboards are ideal.

 

Midsize Surfboards

Midsize boards, also called funboards, are characterized by stability and high volume for high wave counts. They are typically between 7′ and 8’6″ in length. They have a variety of shapes, including pointier noses, more rocker, and pintails. 

They can have a variety of fin setups including single, quad, or thruster. They are suitable for small, weak swells and for novice surfers looking for more maneuverability than a longboard but less than a shortboard.

 

Many people choose this category for their first surfboard.

 

Hybrids, Grovelers, and Fish Boards

Fish, hybrid, and groveler surfboards are short, maneuverable boards designed for smaller, weaker waves. 

 

They are usually between 5′ and 6’11” in length and can have thruster, quad, or twin-fin setups. They are thickened and widened versions of classic shortboard shapes, with wider, rounder noses, and various tail shapes such as squash and swallow. 

 

They are optimized for small, mushy waves and are popular choices for surfers who want a really versatile board. They keep the retro style with twin fins and are a great option for when the swell is not ideal for high-performance shortboards.

 

Want to cruise like you’re on a longboard but still go out into steeper, heavier waves and try to pull some maneuvers? Then these boards are ideal.

 

Shortboards

Shortboards are designed for maximizing maneuverability on steep and fast waves. They are thin, short, and pointy, usually between 4’8″ and 6’6″ in length, with narrow profiles and thin rails. 

 

Shortboards are all about performance surfing, offering maximum maneuverability and control. They can be difficult to handle in less-than-ideal conditions or for first-time riders. 

 

If you’re an experienced surfer and are looking for more “freedom” to move on the wave, or plan to surf in steeper, harder conditions, then shortboards are ideal.

 

Guns

Guns, also called “elephant guns”, are reserved for the big dogs. These are longer versions of performance shapes designed for stability in massive surf. 

 

They are usually between 6’6″ and 11′ in length and can have thruster or quad-fin setups. They have outlines similar to shortboards but with longer lengths like midsize and longboards. They provide improved stability at high speeds and wind, which is essential in monster swells.

 

If you’re about to hit up some big wave surf, like Nazare, then you’ll need a gun.

 

Surfboard Construction

When figuring out how to choose a surfboard, one more thing to keep in mind is what the surfboard is made from. The material a board is built out of can give the board totally different characteristics.

 

Here are some of the main materials surfboards are made from.

 

Fibreglass

Fiberglass is the typical method for constructing surfboards. This involves using a foam base, a wooden stringer for rigidity and flex, and wrapping it in fiberglass cloth before applying resin. 

 

These boards can be fragile, so they should be handled with care and stored in a protective bag or cover when not in use. Some dents on the deck are normal due to body weight and foot pressure, but cracks should be repaired to prevent waterlogging and loss of buoyancy. 

 

Despite their fragility, fiberglass surfboards offer great performance in all kinds of conditions.

 

Epoxy

Epoxy boards are a common alternative to traditional fiberglass boards.  These boards are treated with a hard epoxy coating instead of a thin resin coating, which reduces the board’s flexibility but makes it more durable.

 

Foam

Foam boards are certainly not for high-performance surfing, but they’re fun and practical. An ideal surfboard material for beginners and kids. 

 

Foam surfboards are durable and convenient for transportation, as they can be easily carried around and stored without you having to worry about scratches, sun damage, or dings. They use soft, closed-cell foam to cover the deck and rails, providing comfort and buoyancy. 

 

Recently, some manufacturers have been using cork instead of foam for similar results. And you don’t have to worry about waxing, as the squishy decks provide excellent grip.

 

Wood

Wooden surfboards look cool and have a different feel in the water compared to modern surfboards, with some surfers preferring the way they ride. They’re proper old-school, and in many cases can be seen as a kind of work of art. Wooden surfboards can be more environmentally friendly as they can be made from sustainable materials and don’t require the use of chemicals and resins like those used in foam and epoxy surfboards.

 

If you want a wooden board, be prepared to reach deep into your pockets, as wooden surfboards need to be custom-made by a true surfboard artisan.

 

How to Choose the Right Surfboard – Wrapping Up

With all that said, how do you choose the best surfboard?

 

It’s a personal choice that depends entirely on the surfer and the conditions you plan to surf in. When choosing a surfboard, be totally honest with yourself, as you’re the only person the board needs to be right for!

At the end of the day, the best surfboard is the one you will be most comfortable on and have the most fun with. Don’t try to look like a hotshot and get a board that’s too advanced for your needs. Don’t restrict yourself either, and get a board that doesn’t offer you enough room to improve as a surfer. 

 

We always recommend trying different boards and getting a feel for unique shapes and sizes. Ultimately, the more you surf the better you will understand what board is right for you. 

 

So, what are you waiting for? Grab a stick and hit the waves!